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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning names. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the family completely surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.